Clinopoles
More than
an inclinometer
Upgrading solid and folding poles with
tape scale
NOTE; these instructions seem formidable. Actually the process is very simple and when/if you do it the second time, it is much faster than reading the instructions.
SUITABLE POLES
One-piece solid poles. Straight, cross-section round.
On solid poles the tape scale length can be longer than for folding poles, which increases the measuring accuracy.
There must be at least 80 cm, preferably more of bare pole length from tip upwards, to accommodate for the degree scales and PoleClinometer sticker on the vertical and the level vial on the horizontal pole.
Z-folding poles
You need sufficient bare pole length to accommodate for the PoleClinometer sticker on the vertical and the level vial on the horizontal pole. A grip extension sleeve may need to be partially removed to create enough space.
Black Diamond Compactor poles have been upgraded with 70 cm tape scales. The longer (115-135 cm) works fine, while with the shorter (105-125 cm), the reference line may be left under the telescopic segment. Then paint the reference line instead of tape mark.
Komperdell: My old z-flex poles and new Carbon fxp.4 expedition vario poles accommodated the 78 cm scale. The shorter Carbon fxp.4 expedition vario compact seems to be just as doable as BC shorter pole.
Union Bindings Aluminium and Carbon poles accommodate 60 cm scales.
Other manufactureres' poles may work as well, however they may have a grip extension sleeve which may interfere with the attachment and function of PoleClinometer. I have printed shorter 50 and 60 cm tape scales to fit different poles.
NOTE:
Does NOT include fully telescopic poles! They scrape the degree scale tape off the pole. (unless you want to give up using the telescopic mechanism and always keep the poles at constant touring length )
HOW TO DO IT
UPGRADE PROCEDURE
The horizontal pole will bear the level vial and reference line, to mark the correct position for the angle measurement with the horizontal pole. Reference line is located at the same height as 45 degree mark on the vertical pole.
The vertical pole will have the PoleClinometer line-of-sight inclinometer sticker as near to the grip as possible (to make viewing it at eye level easier); and the Clinopole tape sticker (angle degrees/risk indicator) in the lower part.
The user may decide, which hand they find more natural for which pole.
However, easiest if it is always the same way.
The easy part: Line-of-sight PoleClinometer:
Go to Garage Grown Gear website
(https://www.garagegrowngear.com/collections/cool-ski-accessories/
products/poleclinometer-by-snowander) and buy a PoleClinometer®
sticker set (PoleClinometer.com | the ski pole inclinometer ) and
stick it on your right hand pole according to the clear and easy instructions.
Install | PoleClinometer.com .
Note: The line-of-sight PoleClinometer® color bands depict the general
frequency of avalanches at different slope angles, regardless the avalanche
danger. On the other hand, the contact inclinometer Clinopoles risk indicator
wedges inform of your risk of triggering an avalanche in the spot you measured,
in relation of the day’s avalanche danger given in the Bulletin in moderate
(yellow), considerable (orange) and high (red) avalanche danger conditions.
I tried PoleClinometer® stickers specially printed with the same avalanche
danger symbol wedges as my Clinopole tapes, to keep things simple. This is in
process...
The slightly harder part: Contact inclinometer CLINOPOLE
The kit contains:
Tape sticker
tested: 70 cm for Black Diamond Compactors and 78 cm for Komperdells (older model), 60 cm for Union,
50 fit most Jones Snowboards' poles.
For solid poles, 100 cm tapes.
Spirit level vial: 25x7 mm acrylic
Housing piece, 3-D printed nylon. Opening for insertion of the vial is on the underside.
The diameter of the pole channel in housing is 17 mm, but it fits 18 and 16 mm poles as well.
Double-sided soft mounting tape strip to shut the vial in, give it light background for reading and
prevent it from sliding on the pole shaft. Cut narrower depending on the diameter of your poles.
Poles with 20 mm thickness are fitted placing the mounting tape only in the middle of the groove, and
14 mm by placing two narrow strips of the mounting tape on the flanks.
Two cable ties to tighten and secure the housing on the pole, and a white tape strip for marking the
reference line on the horizontal pole.
TOOLS NEEDED
Space to have the poles fully extended. Best if there is a wall, or a piece of plank to rest the pole tips for measurements.
Scissors (straight)
Pliers
These may be useful:
Side cutters / toenail cutter to trim the cable ties
Snap-blade utility knife, flat screwdriver
Vice, adhesive tape
Tape measure
If you use a 70 cm tape scale on a shorter folding pole (BD Compactor 105-125 cm): you may want to paint the reference line:
Paint for marking the measuring line/reference point on the horizontal pole which would need to slide under the telescopic segment. White car touch-up enamel paint is good, with masking tape. (– a thin white tape may stay on OK but will eventually need replacement).
HOW TO DO IT: Horizontal pole
I suggest to fasten the bubble vial on the frontside
of the pole: this enables easy forward swing of the pole
into measuring position while keeping your grip with
thumb and 1st finger.
It is good to place the vial close to the reference line;
this allows you to check with one glance that the
horizontal pole is level and the vertical pole is at the
reference line.
1. Mark about 3-5 mm broad reference line for slope measurement around the pole, using white tape strip, or paint it. The reference line on horizontal pole is at the same distance from the tip as the 45-degree mark on the vertical pole (depending on your tape length 500, 600, 700,780 or 1000 mm).
2. Put the vial in the slot in the housing piece (in the present model from top, bending the housing
slightly to get the vial in).
3.Cut the double-sided mounting tape into one/two pieces to reach at least beyond both cable tie slots.
For poles with diameter less than 15 mm you might use additionally two narrower strips side by side
near the edges to accommodate the housing inner diameter of 17 mm.
4. Remove protecting cover from the mounting tape and press it to the underside of the housing,
remove the other protecting cover and press the housing-vial-tape combo firmly on the pole.
5. Thread the cable ties into their grooves on the housing, insert the cable tail through the head,
and pull the head deep into the groove.
6. Tighten the cable tie with pliers applying about 8kg/15lbs force. Check that the vial and housing
are level on the pole, adjust by tightening one tie if necessary.
7. Cut the cable tie tail and press the
end deep into the groove.
OPTION: If you want to measure slopes steeper than
45 degrees, you can utilize the fact that the cotangent of
an angle is inverse value of the tangent. Copy the angle
grade on the horizontal pole as far as you think necessary,
but without degree numbers. Mark the reference line
which is 45 degrees. Down from that change the degree
values for horizontal pole: 40 degrees becomes 50
degrees, 35 becomes 55, etc.
To match the 70 cm degree scale I have tried a tape
strip to measure slope angles from 45 to 65 degrees.
The 45 degree line should be exactly at the reference line center of the horizontal pole.
When measuring a slope steeper than 45 degrees you will notice that the tip of the vertical pole will not reach the snow surface. Then keep the vertical pole at that height and slide it along the horizontal pole towards the basket until the tip touches snow surface. Read the slope angle on your horizontal pole scale.
Vertical pole
NOTE: If necessary, the tapes may be trimmed narrower
Solid poles
The tape scale is (in my opinion) good to be on the backside of the pole: this way you can take a loose thumb-finger hold of the sides of the top, bring the pole over your skis to the horizontal pole while keeping the scale facing towards you. (applies especially the solid poles, foldables you may twist :-) )
1. Spread the tape scale with the adhesive covered, by your pole so that the middle of the zero mark is exactly at the tip of your pole. Mark the 45 degrees (middle of the number) on your pole.
2. Wipe your pole free of grease with alcohol, turpentine or similar solvent swab. (PoleClinometer provides two swabs…) Put aside to dry out.
3. Decide what is the lowest slope angle you would want to measure and cut the lower part away, so the tape need not cross the basket.
The poles often taper towards the basket, which may result in the tape wrinkling when attached. To prevent this, taper the scale towards the low end. If necessary, trim the upper end slightly above 45 degrees.
4. Fix the pole with a vice or tape, or have someone hold it steady with your selected tape side up. Peel the protective sheet off your tape scale. Starting from your 45 degree line, align the centre of the tape on the middle of the pole, fasten the center line all the way down, and then gently stroke towards the sides to fasten the whole scale tape. If wrinkles develop, pull the tape scale off, and fasten it again.
OPTION: For extra rough use you might want to add protective clear laminate, which is applied the same way.
Z-folding poles
These are actually easier to do, because you need not handle a long tape. Instead you must cut your tape scale to exactly match the pole segment joints. The joints require about 2 mm free space.
1. Align the tape scale with the adhesive covered, by your
pole so that the middle of the zero mark is exactly at the
tip of your pole.
2. Mark the 45 degrees (middle of the number) on your
pole. Trim excess from top.
KEEP THE POLE AND TAPE IN PLACE, ALIGNED!
3. Cut the tape just above the higher joint, and cut a 2 mm strip off the remaining tape.
Repeat at the lower joint.
4. Then decide what is the lowest angle you want to measure and cut the lower part of the third piece away.
The poles often taper towards the basket, which may result in the tape wrinkling when attached.
To prevent this, taper the scale towards the low end.
5. Wipe your pole free of grease with alcohol, turpentine or similar solvent.
6. Fix the pole with a vice, or tape, or have someone hold it steady with your selected tape side up.
Peel the protective sheet off one segment of your tape scale. Position the segment carefully
just at/between the joint lines, align the centre of the tape on the middle of the pole, fasten it all the way down,
and then gently stroke towards the sides to fasten the whole scale tape.
If wrinkles develop, pull the tape scale off, and fasten it again. Repeat with the other tape segments.
OPTION: For extra rough use you might want to add protective clear laminate, which is applied the same way.
READY!
Upgrading telescopic poles (tough but can be done)
Time budget: After obtaining the materials, roughly 5-8 hours (plus overnight epoxy hardening)
Suitable poles:
Cross-section round, diameter 14, 16 or 18 mm, straight, (including also a straight handle part).
Telescopic poles are most popular in backcountry. Applying a measurement scale on a telescopic pole requires that the length of the scale remains constant whenever inclinometry is done: i.e. the scale markings may need to be individualized for the user. This can be avoided by setting lowest section can be set to maximum length, and utilizing only the lower two-thirds of the pole (70-80 cm) for the scale, which is long enough for accurate measurement.
Flick-lock mechanism is the most common locking used. These poles have a very small tolerance between the different sections. The upper segments tend to scrape off any added paintings, (not to mention tape scale), of the lower segment, no matter how thin paint layer you paint. This can be overcome by roughening/engraving the area to paint with a Dremel type of tool. Also filing the inside edge of the upper segment round removes the most aggressive scraping corner.
Twist-lock poles (I have experience of Leki poles only) sections are not so snugly fitting, so paint will not be scraped off so easily.
The easy part:
Line-of-sight inclinometer: go to Garage Grown Gear website (https://www.garagegrowngear.com/collections/cool-ski-accessories/products/poleclinometer-by-snowander) and buy a PoleClinometer® sticker set (US$ 14.99 + postage) and stick it on your right hand pole according to the clear and easy instructions.
The harder part:
For instant contact inclinometry and immediate visual risk check there’s a bit more work to do: The easiest way is to get vial, holder, two-sided tape and cable ties as described above, or do it from sctarch:
You’ll need:
Acrylic bubble/spirit level vial: 30-50 mm long
(e.g. https://www.leveldevelopments.com/products/vials/plastic-square-section-vials/). Cost:
about 1,50 €/piece, this supplier states a minimum amount to buy is 10 pieces. Plus postage.
Very quick delivery, see what Brexit will do to this...
You may find better deals locally, just google spirit level vial / Wasserwaage Libelle / tubo nivel de burbuja /
tube por niveau à bulle etc. I have used 50 and 39 mm long vials.
(SPRING 2020 started using small cylindrical vials with a mounting adapter..
Two-component epoxy glue
Paints
-Car touch-up enamel paints are reasonably durable. The paint brush attached to the
lid is too big and awkward to use. One small tube is enough for several poles.
-Enamel model paints (Revell etc) and artists’ enamel marker pens (4Artists tried)
do not withstand the wear.
-Marker pens (permanent, waterproof) do not cover very well, so they may need a
white base layer (spray enamel paint). Black thin marker is handy for finishing touches.
-Spray paints are rather handy if you are painting background, and may be ok for
stencil. Require rigorous protection of rest of the pole and surroundings.
Colors: Contrasts rule: White on black background, black on white and light aluminium. Red, orange and yellow: try to find bright colors, clearly distinguishable fro meach other.
Paint brushes: Small is beautiful. Even the smallest house painting brushes are too coarse.
Get artists’ brushes: number 00-0 "detail round” work fine.
For stencil work, sponge brushes may be better. To be tested!
Paint solvent: e.g. acetone. for cleaning brushes, smudges and old paintwork.
Clean cloth rags, cleaning cotton waste, household tissue towels
Sandpaper:
Fine (P 200-600) to prepare the pole for painting - not necessary if the surfaces are clean.
Coarser to work the bubble vial’s bottom to fit your pole snugly.
Masking tape/painter’s tape: thin precision masking tape tape is much easier than the old thick tapes.
Narrow 8 mm tape is OK.
With car touch-up paints, allowing to dry only for 10-20 minutes and then removing the tape seems to work fine.
Some paints tolerate handling in half an hour, to apply new layer, or even tape over to paint next color.
Support planks:
To make painting easier, use two planks about the thickness of the pole to support your painting hand:
tape the pole between the planks.
Stencil:
Stencil gives clarity and professional look :-). The use requires some experience. Finding a good stencil was not easy. I have tried a few dozen made by one Finnish company. Designing and ordering the stencil was a chore. The stencil matter is not solved
yet. Anyway, the sencil must be laser-cut of thin tape. The stencil tape cannot be stretched over pole locks
without causing adjacent paint smudging.
I have also used stencil for degree numbers only, separate stencil for each (10,15,20,25...-...45),
and paint other features with masking tape.
For painting the scale with or without stencil:
Get a paper tape measure (IKEA) and mark your degree scale
on it; examples of degree scales are at the end of this text.
Tape the paper measure on the plank, next to the edge, align zero and the tip
of your pole, and paint the scale and degree numbers on your pole.
I have used a "Dremel" type tool with the smallest engraving tip to lightly break
the surface to be painted, and this seems to help the paintings stay on best.
I have also tried to sand/file the inside corner edge of the upper/outer pole
segment to diminish the paint-scraping effect, and this seems to help, too.
How to do it:
Horizontal pole: The bubble vial is good to fasten on the front side of the pole. This enables easy forward swibg of the pole into measuring position without changing your grip.
The vial should be as close to the reference line as feasible as this allows you to check the level position of the horizontal pole and right position of the vertical pole with one glance.
The scale length depends on the type of pole and your preferred pole length. Anything between 70 and 100 cm will give accurate measurements. Longer scale is easier to read, but will require the availability of the whole pole length for the scale.
1.Paint the reference line for slope measurement. The reference line on horizontal pole is at the same distance from the tip as the 45-degree mark on the vertical pole when the pole is extended for inclinometry (your normal touring length). Paint about 3-5 mm broad line around the pole. Masking tape works fine here.
2. Sand or file the bottom of your bubble vial to correspond your pole. Easiest if you wrap coarse sandpaper on your pole and use this as a tool to sand a groove about 4/5 of the width (12-14 mm if your vial is 15 mm wide). Try to keep the bottom edges untouched to make sure the vial sits level and straight on your pole.
3. Glue the bubble vial with epoxy on your pole, near the reference line. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the hardening time.
4. If you want to measure slopes steeper than 45 degrees, you can utilize the fact that the cotangent of an angle is inverse value of the tangent. Copy the angle grade on the horizontal pole as far as you think necessary. The reference line is 45 degrees mark. Down from that change the degree values for horizontal pole change: 40 degrees becomes 50 degrees, 35 becomes 55, etc.
Painting the vertical pole:
Allow some time for the enamel to dry before doing the next stage.
1. Remove flick-lock clips if that can be done. Protect the joint parts of traditional twist-fix telescopic poles/flick-lock sites with masking tape. If using spray paint, protect the handles as well. Removing baskets will also help the work. Tape the pole together at your normal touring length.
2. If the pole has very prominent colored pattern, it may be necessary to spray paint background.
3. Align the pole between your support planks with your grade marked paper tape fixed. Tape the pole to the planks at tip and handle.
4. Paint risk indicators: Narrow triangle-shaped warning zones: standing on the sharp tip, I recommend
painting them before the degree scale, using masking tape for outlines.
Yellow: 35 degrees - 40 degrees; Orange: 30 degrees - 35 degrees; Red: 25 degrees - 30 degrees
5. Paint degree and number scale over the risk indicator triangles.
If using a stencil, spread the stencil along your pole and cut away the parts overlapping locks and thickness
changes. This makes it much easier to align the stencil without wrinkles, which can seep wet paint under the
stencil tape resulting in a mess. Tear the protective layer off the backside and align the stencil tape exactly
along the axis of the pole (looks much neater). Then remove the protective layer off the frontside to expose
the cut-out stencil. Depending on the stencil maker it may be necessary to remove pre-cut parts off the
stencil tape before painting.
Without a stencil for degrees: tape the lateral edges of the degree marks with two vertical stretches of tape
over the whole scale, and separate the individual degree marks with short horizontal tape strips. Use stencil
or freehand for numbers.
Table: The distances of vertical pole degree markings from the tip when the reference line on
horizontal pole is at 1000 mm (tangent values of the angle).
degrees mm from the tip degrees mm from the tip degrees mm from the tip
10 176 25 466 40 839
11 194 26 488 41 869
12 213 27 510 42 900
13 231 28 532 43 933
14 250 29 554 44 966
15 268 30 577 45 1000
16 287 31 601 (46 1036)
17 306 32 625 (47 1072)
18 325 33 649 (48 1111)
19 344 34 675 (49 1150)
20 364 35 700 (50 1192)
21 384 36 727
22 404 37 754
23 424 38 781
24 445 39 810
For any other reference/45 degree line distances simply multiply the above tangent
values by your scale length expressed in meters: here is the table for my 4-part folding
poles with 780 mm scale length. (tangent values of the angle x 0.78).
Table: The distances of vertical pole degree markings from the tip when the reference
line on horizontal pole is at 780 mm.
degrees mm from the tip degrees mm from the tip degrees mm from the tip
10 137 25 363 40 654
11 151 26 381 41 678
12 166 27 398 42 702
13 180 28 415 43 728
14 195 29 432 44 753
15 209 30 450 45 780
16 224 31 469
17 239 32 488
18 254 33 506
19 268 34 527
20 284 35 546
21 300 36 567
22 315 37 588
23 331 38 609
24 347 39 632
In my first versions of clinopoles I used columns for risk indicator symbols: Some of the photos here are of the old poles.
However, the triangles right on the degree scale make reading faster and easier, and give only the essential information.
